From the dapper tailcoats of the 18th century to the streetwear of today, men’s fashion has gone through many changes over the years. Enormous progress has been made in terms of style, fit, and comfort – some of which have had a lasting impact on menswear. Today, we explore the evolution of men’s fashion over time and its influence on modern trends.
1. A Brief History of Menswear: Tailcoats to Streetwear
Historically, men’s fashion has gone through a multitude of cycles since the 1400’s, from doublets and hose to the well- fitting tailcoat of the Georgian and Victorian eras. From the emergence of the tailored lounge suit in the mid-1800s to what we know today as contemporary streetwear. Let’s take a look at the important eras in menswear and the key garments they brought.
In the late 1700’s fashionable men were expected to wear a tailcoat. This coat with its long, triangular tail was designed to flatter its wearer while serving to make them unmistakably fashionable. This classic was seen all over Europe and was key in establishing the vocabulary of formal attire.
In the early 1800s, the tailored lounge suit with a frock coat, waistcoat, and trousers emerged, a little more relaxed than its predecessor. This look was adopted by the working classes who began to wear ready-made suits for the first time. With this, the silhouette was changed by the reinforcing of a wider, stronger shoulder line, where the waistcoat was cut to a longer length.
In the mid-1900s we saw a strong sub-cultural identity arise that rejected the conventions of the past yet used elements of them to create something new. From Mods to Teddy Boys, they all created their own fashion. This gradually infiltrated mainstream fashion and textiles that allowed for more freedom and movement saw trendsetters begin to stand out on the streets.
Today, streetwear stands as a response to traditional fashion and celebrates individuality. The influence of punk and skater culture is seen in modern day streetwear from skatewear labels like Supreme to high street stores like Uniqlo. Streetwear has become an umbrella term for a variety of different styles, from the recognizable skate wear look to the luxury creators.
- High visibility clothing
- Logo-driven garments
- Cargo pants and tracksuits
- Prints, textures and colors
2. The Rise of Menswear: Timeline Overview
- 18th century to early 20th century: dawn of modern menswear
In the 18th century, men’s clothing underwent an evolution from opulent fabrics and embroidery to more tailored and simplified silhouettes. Over the years, classic items such as the waistcoat, the cravat, the top-hat, and the cutaway coat were widely adopted in the 1910s – the dawn of modern menswear. This era was alsohome to the introduction of the three-piece suit, which is still a staple of the modern gentleman’s wardrobe.
- Mid 20th century: The golden age of menswear
The mid 20th century saw menswear enter its golden age. Ivy League style gained prominence from the 1950s onwards, and traditional dress was paired with new elements such as colorful shirts, chinos, and cardigans. Meanwhile, emerging countries such as India began to have an impact on world fashion as their unique traditional outfits and artisanal textiles became increasingly sought after.
- 21st century: Streetwear innovation and resurgence of the classics
The early 2000s saw the rapid growth of streetwear as a prominent influence on men’s fashion. Logos and graphics adorned the most popular sports brands, while cult items such as baseball caps and hoodies became wardrobe staples. At the same time, menswear also experienced a resurgence of classic items, with well-tailored suits, pocket squares, and pocket watches making a comeback.
- The modern menswear era
The modern menswear era is marked by the blending of traditional tailoring with the versatility of streetstyle, and the clash of east-meets-west fashionable influences. Menswear has now come full circle, with classic business suits paired with more playful pieces, and high fashion labels providing a fresh take on traditional garments. Menswear today can be whatever a man wants it to be – bold, daring, classic, relaxed, and always true to his individual style.
3. Menswear’s Evolution: Adapting Through Time
Menswear has evolved much throughout the centuries, undergoing quick changes as the world changed around it.
- The Middle Ages
During the Middle Ages, clothing styles in Europe varied significantly between the peasantry and the upper class. Peasants often wore cheap, homemade garments for work and special occasions, while the upper class wore clothing that was seen as status symbols. This luxury clothing was usually made from fabrics such as velvet and silk and was often embellished with intricate embroidery. - The Renaissance Period
The Renaissance period saw an increased appreciation for clothing that was both elegant and modest. Popular items included doublets, hose, tunics, and cloaks for men, and women opted for loose-fitting gowns or dresses. Fabrics such as cotton and wool were often used, with the occasional luxury fabrics like velvet and silk thrown in for special occasions. Additionally, fur trim and accessories such as colorful scarves, hats, and gloves were commonplace. - The Baroque Period
Men’s fashion in the Baroque period was still heavily influenced by the Renaissance, but with an added flamboyance. Ruffles, lace, and elaborate embroidery adorned the garments of men from the upper classes, while the lower classes wore simpler attire. This period also saw a shift toward fitted garments such as waistcoats, breeches, and coats. Fur, velvet, and silk were popular luxury fabrics. - The Edwardian Era
The Edwardian Era was a period of great wealth, and this was reflected in the clothing that men wore. Fancy fabrics such as velvet, satin, and corduroy were used to create luxurious garments that were tailored to fit the body and decorated with fringe or embroidery. Outfits often included hats, jackets, trousers, waistcoats, and vests. - The Modern Era
Today, men’s fashion is much more casual than it was in previous eras, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less stylish. T-shirts, hoodies, jeans, and sneakers are seen as everyday staples, while suits and dress shirts are still popular for more formal occasions. Comfort is key for modern menswear, and fabrics such as cotton, linen, and polyester are often used. Luxury fabrics such as velvet and silk may still be seen in special pieces.
Menswear has come a long way over the centuries, always adapting to the changing trends and technological advancements happen around it. Each era had its own distinct style, from the luxury embroidery of the Middle Ages to the tailored suits of the Edwardian Era. It’s clear that menswear will continue to evolve in the future, as times change and styles come and go.
4. Modern Menswear: How Streetwear Changed the Game
The rise of streetwear and how it has affected contemporary menswear cannot be denied. From humble beginnings in the skate and hip-hop culture of the 90’s, streetwear has grown to become a sartorial powerhouse. It has spread from its origins in the city streets to the catwalks of fashion weeks all over the world, and even onto the red carpets of Hollywood.
The secret to streetwear’s success lies in its ability to be both accessible and exclusive. Its easy-going, oversized silhouettes, which incorporate elements of sportswear, social trends and street art, make it both comfortable and stylish. This combination of accessibility and exclusivity has made it easy for people of diverse backgrounds to embrace the streetwear trend.
The streetwear movement has been at the forefront of the biggest trends in modern menswear. From a resurgence in classic 90’s casuals like tracksuits and baggy jeans to modern streetwear staples such as the “dad shoe”, streetwear has shifted the menswear landscape. Brands such as Supreme, Bape and Off White have become cultural phenomena, and the classics they have created are now wardrobe staples of trendy millennials.
The influence of streetwear has also opened up menswear’s doors to previously underrepresented communities. Young people often use streetwear to express themselves outside of traditional norms, and different styles are now free to find their place in menswear. This has ushered in a much-needed wave of inclusivity and creativity to the fashion world.
To sum up, streetwear has transformed the game when it comes to modern menswear. It has opened up menswear to new audiences, embraced new styles, and pushed the boundaries of fashion. Streetwear is constantly adapting and evolving, and its exciting both to watch and participate in.
From the days of the overly elaborate tailcoats to our current era of streetwear, men’s fashion has come a long way. Just as sure as the wheel will keep turning, it is sure that men’s style will progress with each turn. We’ll let time be the judge of what genius new fashion trends will grace our closets in the future, but one thing is certain: fashion is a journey, and history will always be the arbiter of style.
